Loch Ness to Edinburgh

Let me make the point that scotch for medicinal purposes really isn’t scientifically proven, although Ross did keep insisting it was worth a try.  Sadly his sore throat didn’t cure itself during the night and his percussive breathing while he slept only added to our collective fatigue.  Oh well, at least there’s now definitive empirical evidence that scotch doesn’t cure sore throats!

We said our goodbyes to four very lovely people after breakfast – to Tom and Lyn who so warmly welcomed us to Scotland, and to Russell and Hillary, the newly rediscovered family we have been so privileged to spend time with this visit.  After a quick detour into Fort Augustus to stock up on cold+flu medications for Ross in case the dreaded lurgy makes a show, we set off for Edinburgh.

Since arriving in Scotland it has been put to us a few times that we should do the scenic drive via Glencoe and this did not disappoint.  Although we set off in a light drizzle and mist hung over the peaks, it only added to the brooding atmosphere and when mountains momentarily emerged from the cloud it became a revelation.  Stopping briefly for morning tea in Glencoe village, the ensuing journey through Ben Nevis and Glen Coe National Park was amazing. 

View from Glencoe Village

I sometimes think that had I not been to the South Island of New Zealand before coming here the landscape would have an even greater impact.  Not wanting to take anything away from it however, the Scottish Highlands have a very unique majesty.  Both places have similar glacial topography with steep angular mountain peaks, lakes/lochs and vast bare stretches of moorland – all very Lord of the Rings – yet there’s something uniquely intense and brooding about Scotland. 

Rannoch Moor

Ben Nevis kept itself perfectly cloaked in cloud today, as Snowden had foiled us a couple of weeks ago, but its fellow peaks at least made a show.

Glencoe National Park

Glencoe National Park

Ross started to fade and the heavy and slow Bank Holiday weekend traffic on the roads didn’t help.  Desperate times call for desperate measures.  We pulled over and I swapped my map for the driver’s seat.  Not that I really had the chance to get used to the car or the vagaries of speed in MPH.  I lasted 10 miles before Ross ushered me back into the passenger seat – he got too anxious instructing me on gear changes, speed and how to drive in general.  Fine with me – I put my navigator’s hat back on.  Sheesh.

Another break in Callander for a light lunch and then it was the final push to Edinburgh past the striking skyline of Stirling.  We arrived at MDs Guesthouse early in the afternoon so there was time for Ross to have a much needed rest.  The rest of the afternoon was set aside for essential chores in order to free up tomorrow for the Big Smoke.  On our hostess’ recommendation we headed towards neighbouring Stockbridge for the all important task of finding a laundromat.

Attention boys and girls: make sure you do your laundry before you get to Edinburgh as there is a decided lack of suitable establishments.  Any establishments actually.  Take note Lonely Planet – Edinburgh doesn’t have 24hr coin operated laundromats.  Not anywhere we could find anyhow.

The quest for a laundromat became an all-consuming epic task.  After stopping at a service station to refuel the car, the attendant pointed us in the direction he thought was correct (it wasn’t).  Then there was the friendly pharmacist at Boots who pointed us in the right direction.  Then there was driving up and down the street to locate the laundry place and Herculean task to find a parking spot.  Then there was the walk back along the street with a big bag of clothes only to find the shop….closed.  It shut at 3pm and stays closed on Sundays.  HA! 

I think Ross could see I was ready to quit Edinburgh on the spot at this stage so he hastily ushered me into a restaurant for dinner.  Refreshed and slightly more sensible we headed back to our lodgings so I could indulge in some good ol’ fashioned hand washing!  

I miss my washing machine. 

And I really hope Edinburgh redeems itself tomorrow.