Postscript

And in case you're wondering whether Ross ended up buying that antique....

No he didn't.

Deep blue

It's a very cold morning but the sunshine promises a glorious spring day. We know there's a storm on its way though and it's due to cross the capes by lunchtime, so immediately after breakfast we hastily make our way along Caves Road to Dunsborough and onwards to Cape Naturaliste. We arrive at Eagle Bay and the sea glitters.

Storm clouds on the horizon

We park at nearby Gannet Rock and walk the short distance to Point Picquet and back. 

At Point Picquet

And Ross too

From there we continue along the track to Meelup Beach. It's an easy track through coastal scrub, alive with flowers and nectar feeding birds like honeyeaters darting through the foliage.

Walking through coastal scrub

Meelup Beach

When we reach Meelup Beach the sun is still shining and the turquoise waters are calm and sedate. So we venture further along the track on a slightly longer section towards Castle Rock.

Dramatic landscape on the way to Castle Rock

That's Castle Rock at the edge of the bay

We pass quite a few walkers on the trail and notice that they're all wearing raincoats. Of course we were similarly well prepared and brought our rain jackets too ... but opted to leave them in the car (way back at Gannet Rock) since the sun was shining and the clouds were so far off shore.... By the time we reach Castle Rock, the sky is looking decidedly mean and the sun has all but disappeared.

Castle Rock

We don't linger. We see the Rock and do a quick about turn. Except for a short stop to photograph some elusive Spider Orchids (which another walker excitedly told us about... we noticed she had her raincoat on too), we power walk back to the car.

Spider orchids

We don't stop at any of our previous stops. We don't stop to smell or even look at any of the flowers. The birds have gone quiet. The sun has gone and the wind picks up. 

But we make it! We feel a huge sense of relief when we reach the car, and not a moment too soon as the sky is heavy and dark. It's very different to when we started our walk!

Overcast skies and a gloomy sea at Gannet Rock where we finished our walk

Safely back in the car we make the short drive to the nearby Bunker Bay Resort for coffee and then wind our way back down Caves Road to Margaret River. We pass multiple wineries along the way and our stomachs start to groan and demand food... but none seem very inviting. Or maybe it's just our tired legs, the leaden skies and the rain. By the time we reach Margaret River, the rain is coming down in sheets. We opt for a light lunch at Sidekick Cafe. It is warm and dry indoors, the staff are impossibly cheerful, and the food is wholesome. Ross even gets to try their famous bagel.

We retreat back to the comfort and warmth of our room for the rest of the afternoon while the full force of the cold front hits. It is a wild afternoon with strong winds and heavy heavy rain. Fortunately there is a short break in the showers ... long enough for us to enjoy some delicious tapas for dinner at Swings Taphouse.

It is a nice meal to finish our short holiday. Home tomorrow but not before Ross formulates his Plan. A return to the antiques shop in the morning to negotiate a price for the clock. If they yield then we return home with it. If not then so be it.

Under ominous skies

It is an overcast morning but warm, glorious sun breaks through the cloud as we head to the Margaret River Farmers' Market after breakfast. Gosh it's the mother of all farmers' markets in terms of high quality regional produce but then we're in gourmet central. We're spoilt for choice and we end up hauling away a bag bulging with olive oil, muesli, honey, jam, nuts, and mandarins. 

We want to make the most of the sunny and warm morning so it's a drive straight back to Prevelly. By the time we get there it is very overcast but fortunately it doesn't rain. Instead it is quite warm and muggy as we walk along the coastal path from River Mouth to the White Elephant Cafe at Gnarabup. It's Saturday morning and the surf is up so the sea is heaving with surfers bobbing up and down in the waves, just waiting for that perfect ride. 

Prevelly under ominous skies

After a coffee at the White Elephant we walk back to River Mouth, past this rather curious looking statue at Surfers Point.

The skateboarding statue that points the way to the surf

We return to Margaret River but it is too early for lunch so we visit a few stores ... including the Antique Shop. A clock catches Ross' eye and there is much looking and pondering, and pondering and looking. We leave the shop after he decides to 'think about it'.

Another restful afternoon spent reading the newspaper and enjoying the utterly beautiful garden, what luxury! Sunshine, flowers, birdsong, contemplation, and time... surely the recipe for happiness. 

Even the shed looks perfect

The green room

Donkey orchids

The temperature starts to drop as soon as the sun goes down so it's back indoors to a warm room. Until dinnertime that is and an absolutely worthwhile journey back into town for a meal at La Scarpetta.  

    

Into the Wilderness

Almost exactly a year to the day since our last Margaret River sojourn, we again make a pilgrimage to the southwest. We leave the city and its cares behind and drive, drive, drive into the forest. Spring is on our tail and the roadsides are in bloom although winter's grip is still quite strong down here. The landscape is green and fresh but the colours are more muted. We are creatures of habit and stop in Yallingup once again for lunch at Little Fish. Ross proclaims it is the best marinara he has ever eaten(?!) Then again, holidays are always tinged with that rosy glow. A pit stop at Little Fish is never complete without a quick browse round the Gunyulgup Gallery next door, although today I think I preferred this view rather than anything that featured on the other walls:

Through the picture window at Gunyulgup Gallery

Next stop our accommodation at Wilderness House. Conveniently close to Margaret River and Prevelly but surrounded by enough bush for it to feel isolated, it was perfect. Small and quiet but clean, modern and comfortable, it was just the remedy for two tired and frazzled souls.

Wilderness House B+B

Garden view room

Modern and comfortable ... and mercifully a heater! The heater was on... a lot.

Nice bathroom

How wonderful to laze about on a weekday afternoon, to sleep off a big lunch and a long drive, to read a book and enjoy the garden view! But we don our jackets and brave the cold to journey the short distance to Prevelly to watch the sun set.  The afternoon's showers have cleared but the sky is still heavy with dark clouds and there's a biting wind. 

Sunset at Prevelly

It is beautiful ... but dammit it is cold! So we beat a hasty retreat to warmth and comfort.

Summer in Perth

Just some of Perth's glorious summer colours...

Beautiful vistas

The last day of our short holiday as we head home tomorrow morning, so it was fitting that it was a day filled with amazing vistas. We started in Prevelly, which seems to have recovered nicely from the devastating bush fire of a few years ago. I remember feeling quite heartbroken when we drove through the year after the fire and saw the blackened and burnt out stumps of vegetation and scarred dunes.  In today's brilliant spring sunshine it seemed as if the fire had never happened at all - the only giveaways were the ghostly skeletal remains of the taller trees and shrubs, reaching up from the lush green coastal heath.  

What a transformation that Royalties for Regions has achieved! A multi-million dollar redevelopment of the coastal path no less.  We were stunned to see the beautiful new paving, BBQ shelters, interpretive signage, new change rooms and public art.  At least the surfers are making the most of it!

Part of the snazzy new foreshore at Prevelly

Surfers Point at Prevelly - with the obligatory surfer in the foreground

Along the coastal path - can you see the statue sitting on the rock?

The mouth of the Margaret River - where the river meets the sea

In keeping with the last few mornings of 'best spots in the whole world to have coffee', we drove the short distance to Gnarabup Beach and grabbed a table overlooking the beach at White Elephant Cafe.  Shame service came with a bit of attitude but the view made amends.  

Gnarabup Beach

Still too early to have lunch, we drove through the always impressive stand of trees along Caves Road to the Boranup Gallery.  Seeing as we were only here three months ago, not much had really changed, so it was a slow drive back in the opposite direction towards our lunch destination of Laurance Winery.  

Not a bad spot to have lunch really

If only lunch could be like this every day

The food was impressive but equally nice was having time to eat slowly while overlooking the grounds.  The owner of the winery has quite a quirky art collection, much of which is on display, including the 'chick on a stick' sculpture that rises elegantly out of the lake.

Chick on a stick

The bathrooms are just as eccentric but very tasteful.

Classy bathroom...

An afternoon nap was called for to sleep off our lunch but alas, extension work at the B+B meant hammering and drilling noise made it impossible to snooze. We wandered to the main street for the last time for a bit of a browse before the warm afternoon drove us back to our room.

Dinner was modest and limited to cheese and crackers, finished off with delicious farm-fresh strawberries. Perfect after all of today's grand dining.  And our final evening with the show-stopping possum before our return home to the routines and chores of the everyday.  

Until next time.

Into the forest

So it seems there is a possum that lives in the roof and it has some giant skinks to keep it company... and together they make up a 24-hour tag team. The possum is active at night and the skinks scurry about during the day. The owner seemed quite au fait about it when we queried him at breakfast, so er, that's that then.  

Felt happier at breakfast today having armed myself with my own cereal.  After eating we made the short 5 minute drive to the Carters Road Trailhead and made the most of the sunny morning to walk the Big Brook Trail.  Once again, only a short walk (3.5km) and this time on a smooth graded track.  Having said that, the poor signage at the start meant we walked a different trail to begin with and had to double back so we ended up adding to the overall distance.

The path through the woods

After yesterday's coastal walk, the dense forest made for a brilliant contrast.  Apart from a few places where the path wandered close to the highway and there was traffic noise, it felt like being a million miles away from everything.  Just the sound of birds, the whisper of the wind through the leaves, gentle rush of water, and our footfalls on the path.  

Majestic trees

The path crossed over a number of bridges as it switched back and forth across the brook. 

The 'big brook' giving the trail its name

Big Brook Trail

Feeling happy after our morning stroll, we headed to Temper Temper for a coffee and to sample some chocolate. Question: is Margaret River really big enough for a third gourmet chocolate place...?  Silly question!! From there it was a leisurely drive to our last stop of the day at Berry Farm.  We always visit when we're here, not only to stock up on some more wonderful produce, but to enjoy the lovely lunch meals from the cafe. I wasn't lucky enough to see any brilliant blue Splendid Fairy Wrens fluttering around the garden but Ross caught a glimpse. There was just enough of a chill in the air for us to savour our table in the sunshine while we ate our lunch.

The Berry Farm

Lunch over, it turned into another very lazy afternoon of reading and catching some zzZZZs back in our room.  Feeling way too stuffed to eat anything for dinner, we only ventured as far as the main street in the evening for some takeaway sushi.  

And as we drifted off to the Land of Nod, our little possum friend reliably started his nocturnal tap-dance routine above our heads...

Cloud clearing to a glorious day

I must admit I felt a bit cheated at breakfast this morning.  Breakfast is my favourite meal of the day so when it doesn't quite meet my expectations I feel sad.  Although we're early risers we had to kill time until breakfast at 8:30am, when all the guests descended on the dining room at the same time.  Shock, horror, there were only two communal dining tables so it was an introvert's worst nightmare having to scramble around and concentrate on small talk with strangers so early in the day.  Definitely not for me although Ross was in his element.  The cereal and fruit selection was a bit limited and there was no choice of hot mains.  Everyone eats the same cooked breakfast although it changes daily. I'm really not keen on eggs in the morning but ate my scrambled eggs anyway... will probably bring my own rice cereal to the table tomorrow and forego hot meals from now on.

Yesterday's cloud cleared to reveal a glorious sunny morning and so the clouds from breakfast cleared as we drove along Caves Road to the Cape Naturaliste lighthouse.  We opted to do the respectable (almost) 4km Bunker Bay loop walk.  It proved more challenging than we expected with steep inclines and rough sandy track, and took the full 90 minutes but it was well worth the effort.  

Coastal track

The coastal vegetation was an explosion of colour - the pictures below are only a tiny tiny sample of the wildflowers that were in bloom.

Coastal wildflowers

And the coastal views were absolutely breathtaking.  

Looking towards Bunker Bay

While at the Shelley Cove lookout some fellow walkers told us to keep an eye out for migrating whales as they spotted some off the coast yesterday. Sure enough, a little further along we spied a boat and at least three whales frolicking off the coast.  It was a real treat to see them even though they were quite a long way out.  Some other walkers told us about seals in the water visible from another lookout so we had a double wildlife treat today.

Shelley Cove

Limestone cliffs

What better way to recover from a walk than to stop at the nearby Bunker Bay Resort.  Not a bad spot to enjoy a mid-morning coffee really!

Nice spot for coffee

We sat on the rocks down by the water and contemplated the sea for a little while before heading back to Margaret River... via Gabriel Chocolate of course:)  

By the sea at Bunker Bay

Tired from all the fresh air, it was a lazy afternoon of reading and lounging about with only a short detour into town to buy a few things.  An early tapas meal at Swings Taphouse preceded an early night.  Blissful sleep in a warm comfortable bed, in the peace and quiet of Margaret River... until THUMP! Sounds like there might be something scratching about in the roof space above our room...?

Rest

Away! To big sky, giant trees and the sea.

A rest at last. Just me and my travelling companion, back on the road again.  Not far and not for long, just a few hours drive south to Margaret River and only for four days, but after the busy-ness of the last few weeks, it is very welcome.

We reached Margaret River in time for a wholesome lunch at the excellent Urban Bean. So happy to start with some gluten free and vegetarian yumminess.  We checked into our room at the Margaret River Guest House and availed ourselves of an afternoon nap before walking the short 2 minute distance back to the main street.  It was overcast and cold so we had a quick browse around the Jah Roc Gallery before retreating to the warmth of the bookstore for a browse (and purchase!).  Our final task was to scope out restaurants for our evening meal, and booking secured, we returned to the warmth of our room.

Dinner at La Scarpetta was very satisfying.  Ross swears it is the nicest angus steak he has ever had - oven roasted to perfection on a bed of rosemary roast potatoes with gorgonzola and walnut sauce.  My barramundi was pretty nice too although there's not much you can do with cauliflower puree to make it taste anything other than bland.  Even so, it was a good start to our trip.  

Homeward bound

All too soon our holiday has come to an end.  An early morning departure from Albany saw us home by early afternoon.  We carry with us some great memories of dreamy landscapes, and it was a good reminder of just how lucky we are to be only a few hours drive away.  Hopefully it won't be another 12 years before we venture back.