Friday 23 August 2013

A visit to the Hebrides


*APOLOGIES* I haven't been online for a couple of days so remember to scroll down to read yesterday's Highland adventures as well!

The day began with a gorgeous breakfast put on by Tom and Lyn, sitting in front of their B+B and absorbing the amazing view.  As their guests were not due to arrive until 4pm, our hosts were free to spend the morning with us and suggested the castle of Eilean Donan and a possible foray to the Isle of Skye. 

The castle located at the meeting point of three sea lochs (literally the Island of (Saint) Donan) was suitably imposing and was sited in a spectacular location.

Castle
Eilean Donan Castle
Ross and Dawn
Before Eilean Donan Castle
Although a castle/fort had been present on the site for centuries, this latest iteration was the result of extensive refurbishment in the early part of the twentieth century.  The rooms had a certain grandeur about them but were far more austere than any of the English stately homes we had seen.  No gilt or plush brocades on show here – instead there was only solid stone and heavy wood furniture with portraits of clan elders staring sternly down from the walls.

Thinking we were stopping a bona fide kilted Scotsman to take a group photo, we were sadly disappointed to discover he was only a Spaniard in a tartan skirt who struggled with English.  

Group photo
The Scottish reunion (from L to R: Russell + Hillary, Tom + Lyn, Dawn + Ross)
It proved too difficult trying to fight through the busloads of European tourists at the castle so it was a reasonably brief visit.  The opportunity to go on to the Isle of Skye proved too tempting as we were tantalisingly close to the Skye Bridge.  And so it was that Tom and Lyn left us to return to the B+B while we pressed on to Skye.  It seemed a good idea at the time to make for the main settlement of Portree although it proved further than we thought and it became an epic drive around most of the island to get there.
Portree harbour
Portree
View from harbour
View outwards from Portree harbour
I wish I could say it was worth the effort however Portree itself proved a little overrated.  Having secured parking in what turned out to be the main square, we asked a fair local lass (with more tatts than teeth) where we should go and she gave the non-too-encouraging reply that there really wasn’t much to see here.  However we were pointed in the direction of the CafĂ© Arriba which happily put on a nice lunch.

Skye improved on better acquaintance especially as the sun came out after lunch and illuminated the landscape.  Although Portree itself did not have much to offer, the drive back to the Skye Bridge showed off the landscape that the Isle of Skye and the Hebrides are famous for. 

Cue Mendelssohn’s Overture to The Hebrides, we passed through some stunning mountain scenery with tumbledown rocky tops, and waterfalls cascading down to the silvery sea.

Scenery on Skye
Isle of Skye
Scenery on Skye
Isle of Skye
Just how far we’d come became evident when Ross had the unenviable task of navigating the winding roads on the 90 minute journey back to base at Loch Ness.  Nonetheless it was worthwhile to say we’d been to the Hebrides and seen the Isle of Skye. 

Later on, joined again by Tom and Lyn, the lovely meal Hillary made for us all in the evening was a fabulous bookend to a long but rewarding day.  With windows and doors shut to keep out that other very Scottish of things – midges – it was a cozy atmosphere at the lodge with much good will and diverse conversation ranging from the serious to the bawdy but always very good fun.


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