Into the Highlands

Pitlochry was a lovely introduction to Scotland – it fitted all the essential stereotypes.  We indulged in the finest Scottish salmon for breakfast, lunch and tea (smoked, grilled and poached if you please), the high street sold tartan, tweed and shortbread, and we heard the bagpipes at least once.  Our journey out of Pitlochry reaffirmed some other stereotypes – the Scots are golf-mad judging from the number of golf courses in this place, some of which are literally in the middle of nowhere, and it really does rain every day.

Our host at Torrdarach suggested a longer but more scenic route to Loch Ness via the Cairngorms National Park.  We weren’t disappointed, the scenery was beautiful.  Thick stands of conifers gave way to steep mountain slopes cloaked in grass and heather with loose rock tumbling down from the highest peaks.  The road was narrow, winding and undulating – fun for Ross to drive on but exhausting after a while because of the intense concentration required (for him) and holding onto the seat and ever so occasionally emitting a high pitched eeeeeeeeeeeeek (me).

The spectacular Cairngorms

The road through the Cairngorms

As we drove through Braemar we passed its gorgeous castle and obligatory golf course.  More castle towers peeked above the treeline as we passed Balmoral.

Heavy cloud hung over the peaks as we made our way through the national park and even Inverness was concealed under low cloud and gloom.  Once on the shores of the fabled Loch Ness however the sun broke through the clouds most spectacularly.  Needless to say Loch Ness is a whole industry unto itself as we found out once we had to join the queues of cars and tour buses on their slow progress down the A82 road which fringes the Loch.

Not the Loch Ness Monster

We stopped for some lunch before the final 20 minute drive to our hosts at the Loch Ness Highland Cottage Boutique B+B, a lovely spot near the Loch’s edge.  Ross’ cousin Russell was there to greet us along with his friend (and our host) Tom.  Although not staying in the actual B+B we had a quick tour around the two beautifully finished rooms.  In keeping with so many other B+Bs we have been fortunate enough to stay at during this trip, it has obviously been another labour of love on the part of Tom and his wife, Lyn and there could be no disputing the hard work that goes into running this place to such a high standard.  We were treated to tea with an amazing view of the garden and Loch before Hillary and Lyn joined us a little later.

Loch Ness outlook

The remainder of the afternoon and evening was spent in very good company.  It was a rare night off for Tom and Lyn so it made for a good night out with those two Goldstein boys.  For dinner we made the short journey into Fort Augustus and the exquisite Lovat Hotel (highly recommended).  And just in case you’re wondering how many people can fit inside a small Renault hatchback … the answer is 6 – I could elaborate further but I won’t in case it is legally incriminating.  More comfortable without doubt were our evening lodgings in the self-contained lodge behind the B+B which we shared with Russell and Hillary.