Keld to Reeth (18km)

Day 2 - Keld to Reeth

Two routes were available to Reeth: one a high-level route across moorland and past the industrial relics and scars of the region’s lead mining heyday; the other a low-level route through the Swaledale Valley and some of the finest landscape in the Yorkshire Dales. 

While some of our fellow walkers at breakfast scoffed at our intention to follow the river as it is considered less strenuous than the highland walk, I think we got the better deal.  No grim industrial ruins or desolate barren rocky landscape for us – instead we were treated to a softly undulating riverside path which passed through woodland, pasture/meadow and intersected a couple of beautiful little villages.

It was another 8:30am start as we bid adieu to Keld.  We started along the highland route as far as Crackpot Hall, the remnants of a once grand 17^th Century residence that had to be abandoned in the 1950s due to mining subsidence.  From this high point, we descended to the River Swale, the banks of which we did not stray far from for the rest of the day’s trek.

The remains of Crackpot Hall

View across the Swale Valley from Crackpot Hall

We took the optional detour across the river to the village of Muker.  Sadly the tea shop was not open yet for morning tea although Ross did ask the proprietor when that might be. 

‘Between 10:30am and 11am’, we were told.

Since it was 10:25am we said we'd wait to which the impatient reply came,

‘As I said, some time between 10:30am and 11am, can’t be sure when exactly’. 

We took the hint and left.

Village of Muker - pretty place but not very welcoming

Next stop was the more friendly village of Gunnerside where tea and a hot teacake were definitely on offer. From there it was a steady walk across meadows and through innumerable stiles:

‘One thing you’ll remember about Swaledale…is the number of awkwardly narrow stone stiles barely a leg wide and often embellished with a tiny, sprung gate.  If you’re lame, stiff or just lugging a heavy backpack, getting jammed on one of these trekkers’ traps really can upset your composure.’

(H. Stedman (2012). Coast to Coast Path, p175)

‘…continue through an entrancing world of meadows, drystone walls, the dancing river and some stiles designed for whippet-lean local farmers rather than ramblers with large backpacks.’

(M. Wainwright (2012). The Coast to Coast Walk, p116)

Negotiating one of the legendary narrow stiles

Narrower still ... need a travelling companion for the C2C? Only thin chicks need apply!

A forced stop for lunch on the river bank came about thanks to an impromptu nosebleed and then it was a slower pace on to Reeth.

Ross crossing stile #825 of the day

Although we arrived in Reeth at 3pm and too early for check-in at our B+B, as the only guests for the evening we were warmly welcomed with tea and scones.   A shower and some Band Aids later for the nascent blisters/friction burns on my feet and we walked the short distance to the village centre.  What a beautiful place Reeth is.  The central village green is fringed by stone buildings and the village ringed by hills, aglow with a purple haze from the now blooming heather.

Reeth village centre

View from the Reeth village green

After a pub meal it was then back to our quiet B+B to rest for the night and prepare for the push on to the Yorkshire 'metropolis' of Richmond tomorrow.