Into Northumberland

The friendliness and good humour of North Yorkshire followed us into County Durham if our morning taxi driver was anything to go by.  With mock horror and a twinkle in his eye he asked us why we were bothering to drive north towards Scotland when you couldn’t trust a nation governed by men in skirts.

Once at the car hire place we collected our new companion for the coming week – a Vauxhall Insignia.  Smaller and less powerful than last week’s rental, it happily meant Ross couldn’t drive as fast…although he did still put it through its paces on the winding and hilly roads as we left Darlington behind and entered the wide stretches of Northumberland.

Our first stop was the Roman site of Corbridge.  Originally established in the first century AD as a supply fort to nearby Hadrian’s Wall before spawning a small settlement around it, it was eventually abandoned due to continuous raids from over the wall.

Corbridge Roman Site

Frankly we’re not surprised that the Scottish hordes kept overrunning the northern settlements if the nonexistent Hadrian’s Wall was anything to go by.  We apparently drove along it and eventually passed through it with ne’er a sighting. 

Next stop which was much more monumental was Cragside Estate near Rothbury.  The house and gardens were established and maintained by the awesome wealth of the great Victorian engineer, Lord William Armstrong who pioneered hydraulic and hydro-electrical machinery. 

Cragside House

Colours from Cragside formal gardens

Ross’ love affair with stone continued as he couldn’t take enough photos of the house, which was admittedly quite magnificent.

Views of Cragside House

Views of Cragside House

The grounds were similarly awesome ranging from formal gardens and rock gardens to a pinetum and lakes.

Nelly's Moss North Lake

From Rothbury it was a short drive to the medieval market town of Alnwick where we arrived at our home for the next two days, Greycroft B+B.  We were enthusiastically greeted by our host, Tom who ushered us into the guest lounge.  His wife Audrey plied us with tea and cookies while we received a half hour briefing on all things Alnwick and Northumberland.  Together they had so much energy and humour, they were a force of nature. It was the most comprehensive and wonderful welcome we’ve ever had anywhere.

We were suitably geared up to go out again immediately and walk into the town centre where we passed more gorgeous stone buildings.

The Plough Inn

Grand entry into Alnwick

And some more quirkiness.  It was the first time either of us had seen a flat tree perfectly moulded to a wall.

The flat tree

We passed by Alnwick Castle and made it as far as Alnwick Gardens but unfortunately it was approaching closing time so these delights will have to wait until tomorrow.  We did get to see the Tenantry Column however – so called because the tenants of Lord Percy Second Duke of Northumberland paid for its construction in thanks for lowered rents during the Napoleonic Wars.  According to urban myth only the two ‘Percy’ lions in Alnwick (of which one sits atop the Column) have their tails outstretched.  Lions everywhere else always have their tails curling inwards.  Legend has it that their tails will remain outstretched until the last Scot leaves England.  A bit of reverse nationalism for a change – tongue in cheek of course.

Lion atop the Tenantry Column

We had a peek in The Treehouse restaurant at Alnwick Gardens, another example of unique architecture.  A wooden building nestling among the trees it has a reputation for fine dining.  Unfortunately we were too early for dinner service and couldn’t really face a three-course meal in any case so we headed back into town.

Treehouse restaurant

We were both starting to fade slightly from hunger by this stage so we eagerly jumped at the chance to dine at the White Swan Hotel where the bistro was open at 6pm!  It was a happy find as I had my best meal since arriving in the UK – poached chicken with prosciutto and pea croquettes – how good is that?!