Christchurch - the mosaic of new and old

Christchurch greets us with brilliant sunshine and a big arc of cloudless blue sky. It is 10:30am by the time we reach the Quest although our tired bodies are telling us it's really only early morning and scream out for sleep. A shower and a short nap are in order - just enough to be able to function for the rest of the day.

At lunchtime we walk to St Asaph Street in search of a place that serves all-day breakfast. Success! We stumble across Unknown Chapter, a hipster cafe that offers a much needed coffee fix (for Ross) and beautiful restorative food. We continue our meanders after lunch through a Christchurch that still bears heavy scars of the earthquake 9 years ago. There is plenty of construction going on and lots of new low-rise developments, like the cafe we went to for lunch. But there are also vacant lots where buildings were demolished that are now grassed over or used as car parks, and sadly, plenty of derelict buildings that remain boarded up and fenced off.

The sad legacy of the Christchurch earthquake in 2010

We walk through the pedestrian shopping malls and past the once magnificent Cathedral, which now slumbers behind high fences. It used to be the crowing glory of this city. We didn't think to photograph it 17 years ago when we last visited Christchurch. Like everybody else, we probably just assumed that this monument in stone would be unbreakable and permanent.

The ghost of Christchurch Cathedral

There is a certain quirkiness to this city though, and small glimpses of the resilience and humour that the locals have relied on to get through the tough times until their city can be rebuilt. Like this Mini attached to the side of a building....?

New developments, like this urban greenway, are gradually prettying up the city. And there are many examples of beautiful street art/murals.

Urban greenway project

One of the many murals that are dotted around Christchurch

As we walk back to the hotel and step over the ubiquitous electric scooters parked haphazardly on the footpath, we also pass some small pockets of the original Christchurch that have maintained their charm.

Shops and cafes along New Regent Street

It is only mid-afternoon but we are both tired so we follow the tramlines back to Cathedral Junction and spend a few hours resting in our room. The news story breaks about the volcanic eruption on Whakaari/White Island, which although far away from where we are, is a tragedy that continues to unfold during the remainder of our stay and casts an even greater shadow on a country that is already having to deal with a number of other misfortunes. Those poor poor people.

Dinner is conveniently located just downstairs at the excellent Sakimoto Japanese Bistro - a small and neat cafe that is full to bursting, which is understandable given the lovely food. We return to our room with full tummies and so much tiredness.