Tuesday 14 August 2018

To Brugge

Having requested an early breakfast, our host obliges by ushering us into our own private dining room. The table is already set with an amazing spread of cereals, fruit, nuts and yoghurt but he also prepares toast and coffee for Ross, and cooks me a bowl of porridge. All the while he and Ross are engaged in a deep discussion about the economy and Brexit...

We leave well before 9am and join the commuter crush on the Tube. It is standing room only as we squeeze our suitcases and bags into the carriage and make the uncomfortably cramped journey to St Pancras. We can finally exhale once the doors open and we spill out onto the platform. The Eurostar terminal is actually just as frantic but we do manage to find a little relief on the upper level where Ross grabs a quiet spot to enjoy a coffee. At Departures our passports are checked as we leave the UK and two metres further on, are checked again by French gendarmes as we enter their jurisdiction. Once on the train we settle in to our comfortable seats with our newspapers for the 2 hour journey ahead.

St Pancras International
Au revoir Londres
The Eurostar deposits us in Brussels ... considering it is the gateway to the EU, the station is incredibly chaotic, poorly lit and poorly signed. We struggle to find our connecting train as everything is indecipherable (French/Flemish/some weird combination?) There is a mobile phone vendor who seems to be helping similarly confused English-speakers with directions to regional trains and platforms so it is only due to her kindness that we find ourselves on the correct train to Brugge. 

One hour and a short taxi-ride from the station later, we are checked-in to our hotel in Bruges. Novotel may advertise itself as being a top tier offering from the Accor group but our room would suggest otherwise. It is a bit shabby and in desperate need of a refurb. Maybe because tourists in the past have stolen everything that wasn't chained to the floor, only flimsy paper cups and wooden stirrers are on offer in lieu of cups and teaspoons. We make a quick detour to the supermarket across the road to pick up some breakfast supplies for the morning and then head out to explore. 

The streets are absolutely packed with tourists. The narrow pavements cannot contain the throngs and so people spill into the cobblestone roads and have to dodge the many horse-drawn carriages that go at speed around the old city, as well as cars and cyclists. We follow the sea of bobbing heads down the main shopping street towards the Markt (market square).  

Bruges market square
The Markt
We'll have more time to explore tomorrow but the market square is impressive - it is fringed with beautiful 17th century houses, all with stepped gable roofs. The imposing Belfort (belfry) dominates one end along with the Historium. There are plenty of impressive buildings in this UNESCO world heritage city. Impossibly tall brick cathedrals that reach skywards and avenues of colourful traders' houses.

In Bruges

In Bruges
Bruges vistas
But fatigue and hunger eventually get the better of us and soon we just have to sit down and eat. We are not fussy and settle on a casual dining place in a small square off the main drag.  The one benefit of a tourist town is that everyone speaks good English here and happily in Bruges, menus and signs are all in English as well as Flemish. If there is something Belgium is renowned for it is beer so Ross is spoilt for choice. We are both happier once our stomachs are full but it has been a long day and our journey from London catches up with us so we navigate the maze of streets back to our hotel.

In Bruges
Beer!
Beer might be one of Belgium's best known exports but so are chocolate and waffles. The air is thick with sugary fragrance and it seems that every second shop here has a mouthwatering spread of chocolates on display. Signs outside cafes advertise hot chocolate and waffles with ice cream, nutella and every other manifestation of sugar you could imagine.  Our hotel must be located in chocolate central as both sides of the street are lined with delicious treats. It is like living in Willie Wonka's Chocolate Factory.

Chocolate!

Marzipan
Sugary treats in Bruges
We are both so tired though that all the chocolate in the world couldn't keep us from our bed. So we push and shove our way past the crowds eagerly pressed up against chocolate shop windows and retreat to our little sanctuary for the night.


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