A slow day in Bruges

Perhaps it is weariness from our long day yesterday and/or the aftereffects of too much Trappist beer(!) but the day has a decidedly leisurely feel. Ross supplements our humble store-bought muesli breakfast with a 'traditional' hot chocolate and croissant before we walk to Jan van Eyckplein. It is a reminder of Bruges' great trading past and features the magnificent 13th to 15th century facades of embassies and merchants' mansions.

Old merchants' houses - Jan van Eyckplein

As the walking tour was a bit rushed yesterday, we retrace our steps back to the Burg so we can explore it a bit further. The square is still busy but nowhere near as mad as yesterday, so we take the opportunity to go inside the Basilica of the Holy Blood. It is a lovely space and we just sit for a while in quiet contemplation.

Inside the Basilica of the Holy Blood

Our meditation is brought to an abrupt halt when there is an announcement that the 'holy relic' is about to make its daily appearance. The call to prayer brings with it a sudden influx of pilgrims (or curious tourists?) so we make a quick exit. After Ross supplements his caffeine levels, lethargy is still the name of the game so we find a seat in the Markt and just watch the world go by for half an hour. The horse-drawn carriages come and go, clip clopping across the cobble stones. Groups of tourists assemble for walking tours, locals expertly weave in and out of the crowds on their bicycles, the bells in the Belfort chime, and pigeons continue to peck away at nothing, oblivious to the hum of humanity that is all around. Lethargy wins out in the end and we decide to return to the hotel to rest for a few hours.

In the late afternoon we walk the short distance to Oud Sint-Jan and find a seat in a small room that has been set up as a performance space. The harpist, Luc van Laere has become something of a Bruges institution. A talented musician and composer who has performed in concert halls around the world, he has spent the last few years giving free daily performances instead. He explains that music is his life and his wish is to now share his love of the harp with everyone - his way of 'giving back'. For 30 minutes he plays an eclectic mix of harps from around the world, some of which he built himself. It's mesmerising and a real treat for us to experience something so different and meaningful. In fact it is a bit of a rude shock afterwards to re-emerge into the late afternoon sunshine and force our way back into the crowds outside. 

A performance by Luc van Laere

For our last evening in Bruges, we find a nice outdoor table at a corner cafe where we can indulge in omelette (another 'traditional' Belgian snack) while we people-watch. It is such a balmy evening that we decide to revisit some of the places from yesterday's tour. We walk back to the Beguinage and this time we're able to appreciate some of the peace of this place, without the public holiday throngs. 

Aspects of the Beguinage

As we walk back to our hotel along the canals and through Minnewater Park, it is one last opportunity to marvel at the architectural splendours within this most precious refuge for Medieval fantasy and endeavour.

 

Chimneys!