Just a few more steps...

The Belfort is to Bruges what the Eiffel Tower is to Paris. It is an iconic landmark that defines the city and dominates its skyline. A cathedral to secularism, it was constructed in medieval times to advertise the city's wealth and trading prowess. Hoping to beat the crowds, we make sure that we're at the Belfort by the time it opens at 9:30am ... but when we arrive, there is already a queue that snakes its way up the stairs to the ticket office. 

The Belfort

366 steps to the top...

There are 366 steps winding their way in a tight spiral to the viewing platform near the top of the tower. As there is only one way up and down, a fixed number of people are allowed onto the stairs at any one time. Hence the queue. A frustrating turnstile unlocks to let one person in only when one person comes out. We end up waiting in line for 45 minutes just to reach the turnstile. Once through, there's the ascent. Fortunately there are a couple of levels at which we can catch our breath before tackling the final narrow and steep steps to the top. It is quite harrowing having to pass people coming the other way as somebody must stand still while the other person squeezes past on the narrow stair. 

The belfry has big bells(!) of which we're reminded during our climb when the air starts to tremble with loud BONGS. The sound vibrates our innards and hurries our quest to the top. We definitely want to get out of there before 11am when the fully functional carillon starts to play the first of its two daily concerts.

After much huffing and puffing we reach the top and we're rewarded with a 360 degree view of Bruges in all its heritage splendour. Under leaden skies we can see red roofs and cobbled streets, canals and church spires that puncture the horizon.  

The view from the top

Some fellow visitors offer to take our photo to mark our trek to the top. So here we are looking suitably exhausted. One thing is for sure, there's no way in the universe that Brendan Gleeson managed to haul himself up all those stairs with a couple of gunshot wounds in the movie, In Bruges(!) 

All smiles at the top... even though our legs are screaming

At least gravity is on our side as we make our way downstairs. We pass an even longer queue as we exit onto the Markt and pop into the Tourist Office next door. I am disappointed to find out that tomorrow's walking tour is already fully booked, but we're told about another tour that sets off in 30 minutes. We stand outside on the Markt for a while and listen to the belfry's carillon playing eclectic tunes including ... Queen's Bohemian Rhapsody...?! The wind is cold however and it starts to rain. We decide to forego the early tour and instead head back to our room for some warmer and drier clothing. After lunch we take a detour through the beautiful Minnewater park and from there head back to the Markt for the afternoon walking tour.

Minnewater

We join around 20 other tourists and a bubbly young guide for a 2-hour walking tour of the city. We're shown many picturesque squares and historical buildings like the old hospital and Begijnhuisje (beguinage) - a place for religious lay women. They lived together in a quiet and peaceful community without taking religious vows but where they could engage in prayer and charitable deeds (sounds quite idyllic really). And we hear plenty of historical facts and anecdotes - local scandals, and stories about the forever feud between Bruges and nearby Ghent.   

Oud Sint-Jan which functioned as a hospital from the 12th century up until 1977

Fortunately the rain has stopped even though it remains overcast and cool. It has not kept the crowds away though. Once again the streets are packed and our tour group has to carefully negotiate its way down narrow laneways, past other similar tour groups and many horse-drawn carriages. We're also passed by some unusual carriages - not the usual brown horses and black carriages that carry tourists around, but beautifully groomed horses and passengers wearing period dress... What's going on? A wedding? A parade? We later find out it is a public holiday today in Bruges to celebrate the Ascension of the Blessed Virgin.

 

Prancing ponies and their well-dressed drivers

We pass the "most photographed" spot in Bruges... Thanks to the movie, tourists fall over each other to photograph the view over the canal towards the Relais Bourgondisch Cruyce hotel. 

The most photographed view in Bruges... apparently 

An equally picturesque view

We finish our tour at the Burg Square outside the City Hall and the Basilica of the Holy Blood. At the far top right of the facade is a little figure holding a golden staff. Legend has it the Count of Flanders, who built all this in 1150 brought home a tiny scrap of fabric (with drops of Christ's blood) from The Second Crusade. The relic now lives in a vial in the adjacent  Basilica of the Holy Blood, where it is brought out daily for veneration. Of course the Church never allowed for it to be tested and so faith brings out the true believers and curious tourists to try and catch a glimpse of it.

The impressive facade of the City Hall

Basilica of the Holy Blood

We've done a lot of walking and in a bid to escape the crowds we retreat back to our room for a couple of hours to rest our tired feet before dinner.

I have arranged for us to meet a University colleague this evening. Although he is based in Ghent, he will be out of town when we're there later in the week so he offers to make the short train journey to Bruges instead. Unfortunately the Half Moon Brewery is closed this evening but we find a place nearby on Walplein where we three enjoy a hearty meal. On Mike's advice, Ross tries the Flemish beef stew with frites and a 'traditional' Belgian beer that packs a punch owing to its 8% alcohol content. That's quite normal here apparently and anything less than that is considered a laughing stock? I am quite content with what must be the nicest cooked salmon meal I've had in a very long time. It is great to catch up and Mike is very generous with suggestions about places to visit when we get to Ghent. Mike insists on treating us another drink before he heads back to the railway station so after dinner we make our way back to the Markt.

A familiar face

The clouds have cleared to reveal a beautiful evening. And so our day finishes where it began - at the foot of the Belfort - although as the light fades and the square is lit up, it assumes an entirely different and most beautiful appearance. 

Full circle - the Belfort at night

We say our goodbyes to Mike and head our separate ways. It has been a very long and tiring day but we have seen so much and experienced a lot of this old and quite enchanting city. Somehow we coax our tired feet to walk just a few steps more back to the hotel and some much needed sleep.