Rest

Away! To big sky, giant trees and the sea.

A rest at last. Just me and my travelling companion, back on the road again.  Not far and not for long, just a few hours drive south to Margaret River and only for four days, but after the busy-ness of the last few weeks, it is very welcome.

We reached Margaret River in time for a wholesome lunch at the excellent Urban Bean. So happy to start with some gluten free and vegetarian yumminess.  We checked into our room at the Margaret River Guest House and availed ourselves of an afternoon nap before walking the short 2 minute distance back to the main street.  It was overcast and cold so we had a quick browse around the Jah Roc Gallery before retreating to the warmth of the bookstore for a browse (and purchase!).  Our final task was to scope out restaurants for our evening meal, and booking secured, we returned to the warmth of our room.

Dinner at La Scarpetta was very satisfying.  Ross swears it is the nicest angus steak he has ever had - oven roasted to perfection on a bed of rosemary roast potatoes with gorgonzola and walnut sauce.  My barramundi was pretty nice too although there's not much you can do with cauliflower puree to make it taste anything other than bland.  Even so, it was a good start to our trip.  

Homeward bound

All too soon our holiday has come to an end.  An early morning departure from Albany saw us home by early afternoon.  We carry with us some great memories of dreamy landscapes, and it was a good reminder of just how lucky we are to be only a few hours drive away.  Hopefully it won't be another 12 years before we venture back.  

Onwards to Albany

It was difficult leaving our Denmark B+B after breakfast but we were rewarded with another  sunny morning and the drive to the main highway sparkled with amazing vistas.

Suttons Road

Farmland views

Tree-lined avenue to South Coast Highway

We opted to bypass Albany to begin with and headed straight around Oyster Bay to Two Peoples Bay Nature Reserve.  The wild coastline from the Visitor Centre was spectacular in its own right but we thanked our lucky stars we decided to drive a bit further on to Little Beach because that left us completely speechless.

Two Peoples Bay

No picture can do justice to the insane prettiness of Little Beach.  The sand is white and so fine it is like walking on powdered snow.  We were among only a handful of people on the beach and a friendly bystander instructed us to take a short walk along the rocks to get an even better view of the coast.  We are eternally grateful to that stranger because the landscape opened up into a series of dazzling rock pools and the surf beyond. 

Little Beach

Little Beach

Rockpools

Rockpools

Rockpools

Selfishly I hope this place remains a secret because it is such a pristine environment.  The lichens on the rock are testament to the pure air and lack of disturbance. We were absolutely privileged to experience this place on the best of days and to appreciate its quiet wilderness.

Returning to civilisation, we stopped for a coffee break at Middleton Beach before making our way to the newly opened National ANZAC Centre.  Opened only a few months ago on the 100th Anniversary of the start of WWI, it is a magnificent memorial to the ANZACs who departed from Albany in a large number of convoy ships.  For many it was the last glimpse they had of Australia.  The displays were high-tech without being detached or cold, and we left the museum deeply moved by our visit.

National ANZAC Centre, Albany

The building uses space and aspect to great effect - here a view over the Bay where
the ANZAC convoys would have sailed past during WWI

Desert Mounted Corps Memorial, Albany

It was a steep climb up steps to the War Memorial but worthwhile for the views it offered over Albany and the harbour. Returning to earth (literally and figuratively), we made our way to Dunmoylen House, our accommodation for the evening.  Ross was determined to dislike Albany so he begrudged the fact our room didn't have a window.  As a heritage house, it had its quirks but it was comfortable enough.

Dunmoylen House

Dinner in Albany was less rewarding as mid-week and offseason meant that most decent restaurants were shut.  We ended up having a pretty ordinary meal in the main street.  So perhaps not the most magnificent way to finish our holiday but on balance the day certainly  delivered!

Denmark

The morning rewarded us with brilliant sunshine and it was the perfect weather to drink in the stupendous beauty of Greens Pool.

The south coast is crazy pretty and wild.  No matter what direction you look, you can't see any sign of human habitation.  We benefited from the early morning visit as we were able to walk the short distance between Greens Pool and Elephant Rocks in solitude.

Overlooking Greens Pool

The round rumps of Elephant Rocks

Mid-morning meant a foray into Denmark for coffee by the River and a look around town.  Then a leisurely drive along Ocean Beach Road and a few scenic stops along the coast.  

Denmark coast

It was another restful afternoon soaking up the view before returning to Castelli for one final session with the genius chef.  And before retiring for the evening, we braved the chill to glance upwards at the sky.  The clear night meant an unimpeded view of the stars.  The city lights in Perth rob us of the heavens despite our cloudless nights so it was a great privilege to finally see the galaxy stretched out in all its glory above our heads.  A reminder of just how small and insignificant we are in the scale of the universe, and an opportunity to reflect and  bask in the light from the beginning of time.

Dunsborough to Denmark

My Dad's (actual) birthday! After a cooked breakfast courtesy of Masterchef Bill, we bid the Birthday Boy goodbye as Ross and I continued our journey further south. Leaving Dunsborough behind, we took the Vasse Highway south through Nannup and Pemberton. Then along winding roads through national parks and scorched and blackened forests towards Walpole.  Twelve years ago we visited the Valley of the Giants Tree Top Walk and going back there was like visiting an old friend.  Happily the trees were untouched. We couldn't go to Denmark without seeing the tingle trees again, and it was every bit as awesome this time to float through the canopy 40m above the ground.

Posing on the Tree Top Walk

Valley of the Giants

From there it wasn't too much further to reach our B+B outside of Denmark.  The Sensational Heights Bed and Breakfast absolutely deserves its name. Its hilltop location gives it unrestricted views over rolling farmland and forest and the drive out there only serves to show off the tree-lined roads and countryside.  Our room was comfortable and a seat by the window with a cup of tea was a mesmerising way to pass the afternoon.

Sensational Heights B+B

A comfortable room

The view from Sensational Heights

Refreshed, we went for an adventurous dusk drive along unsealed roads to our host's recommendation for dinner - the brilliant Castelli Bistro.  The chef was quite the genius as the meals were wonderful.  So good in fact that we returned for dinner the following day.