Beautiful vistas

The last day of our short holiday as we head home tomorrow morning, so it was fitting that it was a day filled with amazing vistas. We started in Prevelly, which seems to have recovered nicely from the devastating bush fire of a few years ago. I remember feeling quite heartbroken when we drove through the year after the fire and saw the blackened and burnt out stumps of vegetation and scarred dunes.  In today's brilliant spring sunshine it seemed as if the fire had never happened at all - the only giveaways were the ghostly skeletal remains of the taller trees and shrubs, reaching up from the lush green coastal heath.  

What a transformation that Royalties for Regions has achieved! A multi-million dollar redevelopment of the coastal path no less.  We were stunned to see the beautiful new paving, BBQ shelters, interpretive signage, new change rooms and public art.  At least the surfers are making the most of it!

Part of the snazzy new foreshore at Prevelly

Surfers Point at Prevelly - with the obligatory surfer in the foreground

Along the coastal path - can you see the statue sitting on the rock?

The mouth of the Margaret River - where the river meets the sea

In keeping with the last few mornings of 'best spots in the whole world to have coffee', we drove the short distance to Gnarabup Beach and grabbed a table overlooking the beach at White Elephant Cafe.  Shame service came with a bit of attitude but the view made amends.  

Gnarabup Beach

Still too early to have lunch, we drove through the always impressive stand of trees along Caves Road to the Boranup Gallery.  Seeing as we were only here three months ago, not much had really changed, so it was a slow drive back in the opposite direction towards our lunch destination of Laurance Winery.  

Not a bad spot to have lunch really

If only lunch could be like this every day

The food was impressive but equally nice was having time to eat slowly while overlooking the grounds.  The owner of the winery has quite a quirky art collection, much of which is on display, including the 'chick on a stick' sculpture that rises elegantly out of the lake.

Chick on a stick

The bathrooms are just as eccentric but very tasteful.

Classy bathroom...

An afternoon nap was called for to sleep off our lunch but alas, extension work at the B+B meant hammering and drilling noise made it impossible to snooze. We wandered to the main street for the last time for a bit of a browse before the warm afternoon drove us back to our room.

Dinner was modest and limited to cheese and crackers, finished off with delicious farm-fresh strawberries. Perfect after all of today's grand dining.  And our final evening with the show-stopping possum before our return home to the routines and chores of the everyday.  

Until next time.

Into the forest

So it seems there is a possum that lives in the roof and it has some giant skinks to keep it company... and together they make up a 24-hour tag team. The possum is active at night and the skinks scurry about during the day. The owner seemed quite au fait about it when we queried him at breakfast, so er, that's that then.  

Felt happier at breakfast today having armed myself with my own cereal.  After eating we made the short 5 minute drive to the Carters Road Trailhead and made the most of the sunny morning to walk the Big Brook Trail.  Once again, only a short walk (3.5km) and this time on a smooth graded track.  Having said that, the poor signage at the start meant we walked a different trail to begin with and had to double back so we ended up adding to the overall distance.

The path through the woods

After yesterday's coastal walk, the dense forest made for a brilliant contrast.  Apart from a few places where the path wandered close to the highway and there was traffic noise, it felt like being a million miles away from everything.  Just the sound of birds, the whisper of the wind through the leaves, gentle rush of water, and our footfalls on the path.  

Majestic trees

The path crossed over a number of bridges as it switched back and forth across the brook. 

The 'big brook' giving the trail its name

Big Brook Trail

Feeling happy after our morning stroll, we headed to Temper Temper for a coffee and to sample some chocolate. Question: is Margaret River really big enough for a third gourmet chocolate place...?  Silly question!! From there it was a leisurely drive to our last stop of the day at Berry Farm.  We always visit when we're here, not only to stock up on some more wonderful produce, but to enjoy the lovely lunch meals from the cafe. I wasn't lucky enough to see any brilliant blue Splendid Fairy Wrens fluttering around the garden but Ross caught a glimpse. There was just enough of a chill in the air for us to savour our table in the sunshine while we ate our lunch.

The Berry Farm

Lunch over, it turned into another very lazy afternoon of reading and catching some zzZZZs back in our room.  Feeling way too stuffed to eat anything for dinner, we only ventured as far as the main street in the evening for some takeaway sushi.  

And as we drifted off to the Land of Nod, our little possum friend reliably started his nocturnal tap-dance routine above our heads...

Cloud clearing to a glorious day

I must admit I felt a bit cheated at breakfast this morning.  Breakfast is my favourite meal of the day so when it doesn't quite meet my expectations I feel sad.  Although we're early risers we had to kill time until breakfast at 8:30am, when all the guests descended on the dining room at the same time.  Shock, horror, there were only two communal dining tables so it was an introvert's worst nightmare having to scramble around and concentrate on small talk with strangers so early in the day.  Definitely not for me although Ross was in his element.  The cereal and fruit selection was a bit limited and there was no choice of hot mains.  Everyone eats the same cooked breakfast although it changes daily. I'm really not keen on eggs in the morning but ate my scrambled eggs anyway... will probably bring my own rice cereal to the table tomorrow and forego hot meals from now on.

Yesterday's cloud cleared to reveal a glorious sunny morning and so the clouds from breakfast cleared as we drove along Caves Road to the Cape Naturaliste lighthouse.  We opted to do the respectable (almost) 4km Bunker Bay loop walk.  It proved more challenging than we expected with steep inclines and rough sandy track, and took the full 90 minutes but it was well worth the effort.  

Coastal track

The coastal vegetation was an explosion of colour - the pictures below are only a tiny tiny sample of the wildflowers that were in bloom.

Coastal wildflowers

And the coastal views were absolutely breathtaking.  

Looking towards Bunker Bay

While at the Shelley Cove lookout some fellow walkers told us to keep an eye out for migrating whales as they spotted some off the coast yesterday. Sure enough, a little further along we spied a boat and at least three whales frolicking off the coast.  It was a real treat to see them even though they were quite a long way out.  Some other walkers told us about seals in the water visible from another lookout so we had a double wildlife treat today.

Shelley Cove

Limestone cliffs

What better way to recover from a walk than to stop at the nearby Bunker Bay Resort.  Not a bad spot to enjoy a mid-morning coffee really!

Nice spot for coffee

We sat on the rocks down by the water and contemplated the sea for a little while before heading back to Margaret River... via Gabriel Chocolate of course:)  

By the sea at Bunker Bay

Tired from all the fresh air, it was a lazy afternoon of reading and lounging about with only a short detour into town to buy a few things.  An early tapas meal at Swings Taphouse preceded an early night.  Blissful sleep in a warm comfortable bed, in the peace and quiet of Margaret River... until THUMP! Sounds like there might be something scratching about in the roof space above our room...?

Rest

Away! To big sky, giant trees and the sea.

A rest at last. Just me and my travelling companion, back on the road again.  Not far and not for long, just a few hours drive south to Margaret River and only for four days, but after the busy-ness of the last few weeks, it is very welcome.

We reached Margaret River in time for a wholesome lunch at the excellent Urban Bean. So happy to start with some gluten free and vegetarian yumminess.  We checked into our room at the Margaret River Guest House and availed ourselves of an afternoon nap before walking the short 2 minute distance back to the main street.  It was overcast and cold so we had a quick browse around the Jah Roc Gallery before retreating to the warmth of the bookstore for a browse (and purchase!).  Our final task was to scope out restaurants for our evening meal, and booking secured, we returned to the warmth of our room.

Dinner at La Scarpetta was very satisfying.  Ross swears it is the nicest angus steak he has ever had - oven roasted to perfection on a bed of rosemary roast potatoes with gorgonzola and walnut sauce.  My barramundi was pretty nice too although there's not much you can do with cauliflower puree to make it taste anything other than bland.  Even so, it was a good start to our trip.  

Homeward bound

All too soon our holiday has come to an end.  An early morning departure from Albany saw us home by early afternoon.  We carry with us some great memories of dreamy landscapes, and it was a good reminder of just how lucky we are to be only a few hours drive away.  Hopefully it won't be another 12 years before we venture back.  

Onwards to Albany

It was difficult leaving our Denmark B+B after breakfast but we were rewarded with another  sunny morning and the drive to the main highway sparkled with amazing vistas.

Suttons Road

Farmland views

Tree-lined avenue to South Coast Highway

We opted to bypass Albany to begin with and headed straight around Oyster Bay to Two Peoples Bay Nature Reserve.  The wild coastline from the Visitor Centre was spectacular in its own right but we thanked our lucky stars we decided to drive a bit further on to Little Beach because that left us completely speechless.

Two Peoples Bay

No picture can do justice to the insane prettiness of Little Beach.  The sand is white and so fine it is like walking on powdered snow.  We were among only a handful of people on the beach and a friendly bystander instructed us to take a short walk along the rocks to get an even better view of the coast.  We are eternally grateful to that stranger because the landscape opened up into a series of dazzling rock pools and the surf beyond. 

Little Beach

Little Beach

Rockpools

Rockpools

Rockpools

Selfishly I hope this place remains a secret because it is such a pristine environment.  The lichens on the rock are testament to the pure air and lack of disturbance. We were absolutely privileged to experience this place on the best of days and to appreciate its quiet wilderness.

Returning to civilisation, we stopped for a coffee break at Middleton Beach before making our way to the newly opened National ANZAC Centre.  Opened only a few months ago on the 100th Anniversary of the start of WWI, it is a magnificent memorial to the ANZACs who departed from Albany in a large number of convoy ships.  For many it was the last glimpse they had of Australia.  The displays were high-tech without being detached or cold, and we left the museum deeply moved by our visit.

National ANZAC Centre, Albany

The building uses space and aspect to great effect - here a view over the Bay where
the ANZAC convoys would have sailed past during WWI

Desert Mounted Corps Memorial, Albany

It was a steep climb up steps to the War Memorial but worthwhile for the views it offered over Albany and the harbour. Returning to earth (literally and figuratively), we made our way to Dunmoylen House, our accommodation for the evening.  Ross was determined to dislike Albany so he begrudged the fact our room didn't have a window.  As a heritage house, it had its quirks but it was comfortable enough.

Dunmoylen House

Dinner in Albany was less rewarding as mid-week and offseason meant that most decent restaurants were shut.  We ended up having a pretty ordinary meal in the main street.  So perhaps not the most magnificent way to finish our holiday but on balance the day certainly  delivered!

Denmark

The morning rewarded us with brilliant sunshine and it was the perfect weather to drink in the stupendous beauty of Greens Pool.

The south coast is crazy pretty and wild.  No matter what direction you look, you can't see any sign of human habitation.  We benefited from the early morning visit as we were able to walk the short distance between Greens Pool and Elephant Rocks in solitude.

Overlooking Greens Pool

The round rumps of Elephant Rocks

Mid-morning meant a foray into Denmark for coffee by the River and a look around town.  Then a leisurely drive along Ocean Beach Road and a few scenic stops along the coast.  

Denmark coast

It was another restful afternoon soaking up the view before returning to Castelli for one final session with the genius chef.  And before retiring for the evening, we braved the chill to glance upwards at the sky.  The clear night meant an unimpeded view of the stars.  The city lights in Perth rob us of the heavens despite our cloudless nights so it was a great privilege to finally see the galaxy stretched out in all its glory above our heads.  A reminder of just how small and insignificant we are in the scale of the universe, and an opportunity to reflect and  bask in the light from the beginning of time.

Dunsborough to Denmark

My Dad's (actual) birthday! After a cooked breakfast courtesy of Masterchef Bill, we bid the Birthday Boy goodbye as Ross and I continued our journey further south. Leaving Dunsborough behind, we took the Vasse Highway south through Nannup and Pemberton. Then along winding roads through national parks and scorched and blackened forests towards Walpole.  Twelve years ago we visited the Valley of the Giants Tree Top Walk and going back there was like visiting an old friend.  Happily the trees were untouched. We couldn't go to Denmark without seeing the tingle trees again, and it was every bit as awesome this time to float through the canopy 40m above the ground.

Posing on the Tree Top Walk

Valley of the Giants

From there it wasn't too much further to reach our B+B outside of Denmark.  The Sensational Heights Bed and Breakfast absolutely deserves its name. Its hilltop location gives it unrestricted views over rolling farmland and forest and the drive out there only serves to show off the tree-lined roads and countryside.  Our room was comfortable and a seat by the window with a cup of tea was a mesmerising way to pass the afternoon.

Sensational Heights B+B

A comfortable room

The view from Sensational Heights

Refreshed, we went for an adventurous dusk drive along unsealed roads to our host's recommendation for dinner - the brilliant Castelli Bistro.  The chef was quite the genius as the meals were wonderful.  So good in fact that we returned for dinner the following day.

Yallingup

Overnight showers meant overcast and atmospheric dawn skies when we went for a walk from Yallingup Beach to Smiths Beach.  It was a relatively strenuous scramble over the rocky track and beach sand but so worth it to hear the surf and breathe the fresh salty air.

Sunrise on the coast

Walking to Smiths Beach

And what sand! Beautiful smooth sand and we almost had the beach to ourselves. 

Smiths Beach

After breakfast it was a trip down Caves Road past wineries and forest to Boranup Gallery, Margaret River, the always divine Gabriel Chocolate, and Vasse Virgin for the nicest local produce.

And to bookend the day, a return journey to Smiths Beach to dine at Lamont's.  My Dad turns 79 tomorrow and it was a fittingly low-key but meaningful celebration.

Birthday dinner

A welcome break

After a very busy few weeks leading up to June, a week off was very welcome and what better way to unwind than a trip to the southwest.  Dad's birthday gave us all a good excuse to spend a few days together in Dunsborough, and we started with an excellent meal at Little Fish in Yallingup.

Pre-birthday lunch in the perfect spot

It was a dreamy Saturday afternoon with sunlight streaming in through the large window and reflecting off the lake outside.  Good food and a deliciously warm sunbeam, is this heaven?

The view from Little Fish

Full from lunch we returned to comfort in Dunsborough for a lazy evening at the house.  The neighbourhood kangaroos even popped round for a visit, grazing just outside the kitchen window.

Kitchen kangaroos

Day One down and nought but another full week of holidays to look forward to.  Absolute bliss.