Seatoller to Grasmere

The stats

• Day 3 - Rosthwaite/Stonethwaite to Grasmere - 9miles (14.5km)

The verdict

At breakfast we again share a table with our dining companions from last night and are graced with a sighting of a rare red squirrel through the window.  While our companions wax lyrical about ambling across the fells today, we ready ourselves for some more tough hills.  Fortunately in distance terms, we should have a comparatively easy day today.  It is probably just as well because Dad's blister is quite bad and it causes him to grimace when he first puts on his boot.  Of all the things to forget to bring, I discover that the full box of blister bandages I had intended to carry are still sitting in my bathroom in Perth.    

We set off quite late but before we rejoin the C2C route, Ross is determined to find some more walking poles.  To date he has been using one of a pair - my Dad has the other.  It would help if Dad used the pair and he insists that I should also carry one.  I am sceptical as I've managed so far without.  We discover that poles are hard to come by in this part of the world so we abandon that idea for now and just continue to Stonethwaite where we rejoin the C2C path as it climbs up out of the valley.  

Climbing upwards from Stonethwaite

The track rises steadily upwards but at least the gradient is manageable.    

Having a rest by a beck

Following the path uphill

Or at least the gradient is manageable until we hit some more steps hewn out of the rock which take us over Lining Crag.  It is not as steep as Loft Beck yesterday but is hard work nonetheless for legs still recovering from that mammoth effort!  The ground at the top is very boggy and while we're skirting around the worst of the mud we almost lose the path as the cairns are small and aren't easy to spot.  After a morning without sighting any other walkers we think we can see the Minnesota Ladies ahead of us and we start to catch up.  As we start going downhill we greet our fellows.  One of the ladies is taking it slow as her ankle is hurting so we overtake.  As we keep progressing downhill we keep looking back but the ladies seem to be stationary on the hillside.  We start to worry and task some walkers going in the opposite direction to check on them...

Soon we are over a small rise and we lose sight of the ladies but quietly hope they will be okay.  We stop for lunch but then have to retrace our steps slightly as we have inadvertently followed an alternative path.  It is so easy to take another of the multitude of paths that criss cross this landscape and it is only after some debate among ourselves, consultation of the guide books and asking some day-walkers going in the opposite direction that we find the main route down Far Easedale.  

It is a long and rocky path down to Grasmere but we must press on as we are being met at 4pm.    

The rocky path to Grasmere

Slowly we see more signs of civilisation and then we finally emerge into the town.

The road into Grasmere

We arrive in Grasmere with a few minutes to spare and make our way to the Red Lion Hotel where we're met by Howard the friendly cabbie right on the dot of 4pm.  Walking poles, bags and hats are piled into the back of the taxi before we haul our tired limbs in for the drive to Ambleside.  Accommodation is at a premium here in the top tourist towns of the Lakes, particularly as it is a weekend.  The streets of Ambleside are buzzing when we arrive at our accommodation.   I am so relieved when our host carries our suitcases up the winding flights of stairs to our rooms on the top floor! 

Although it was cloudy today, sunburn has been added to my Dad's list of woes.  We have all caught the sun but Dad's hands are bright red and sore.  Ambleside has the benefit of having a busy main street with lots of shops so we waste no time and head out immediately to the pharmacy to get some provisions for Dad's blisters and sunburn.  Ross tracks down an outdoor shop and purchases another pair of walking poles and me?  My first taste of 'civilisation' sees me head straight to Tesco to stock up on bananas and trail mix:)

Tomorrow is Father's Day in Australia so we treat ourselves to a nice meal at the  restaurant across the road from our accommodation.  Dad squeezes his blistered foot into the only other pair of shoes he has - a pair of stiff leather dress shoes - and limps the short distance to the restaurant.  He winces in pain every time he walks.  Ross and I are despairing and try to convince him to maybe take the day out tomorrow to rest his foot...