Ennerdale Bridge to Seatoller

The stats

• Day 2 - Ennerdale Bridge to Rosthwaite - 14.5miles (23km)

The verdict

The muscles are decidedly stiff on rising this morning but hopefully the pain will subside once we get walking.  Breakfast is wonderful and on checking out and collecting our packed lunches we reconnect with our fellow Coast to Coasters in front of our accommodation for some photos before we set off.  

There had been some debate over breakfast as to whether we should take the path along the north shore or the south shore of Ennerdale Water.  We conclude after a few conversations with 'locals-who-might-know' that the south shore is more likely to be waterlogged from the other night's storm and while the north shore mightn't be as scenic, there is apparently one magical spot from where you can look down the full length of the lake and which alone makes the north path worthwhile.  This seals the deal for us (that and a phobia of reliving Stanley Pond) so we set off walking the north path.  The Minnesota Ladies choose the same route while others in our party opt to go by the south path.

Looking east down Ennerdale Water

The weather is absolutely glorious and we are rewarded with breathtaking views of the lake.

Views over Ennerdale Water

Maybe our eyes are deceiving us but as the views over the lake are so clear, we think at one point that we glimpse the bright yellow jacket of our fellow Coast to Coaster over on the opposite shore.  

The path along the lake shore is easy walking and while it sometimes meanders into scrub, at least it is on the level.  Once we reach the end of the lake, we strike the broad gravel track that follows the River Liza.  While it's a superb track and easy gradient, it is quite a slow and laborious trek and we feel a bit weary by the time we reach the Black Sail youth hostel.  It is understandable why it has the reputation as the most remote youth hostel in Britain.  It is so far removed from everything yet sits proudly in its clearing at the foot of the mountains.  

The common room is deserted when we arrive.  We settle down for some refreshment in the cozy surrounds and tuck into our packed lunches.  It isn't long before we're joined by the Minnesota Ladies and not far behind them, the large Californian walking party.  Dad admits to some discomfort on his heel thinks he has a blister forming - probably a consequence of submerged feet and walking in wet boots yesterday.  We make do with some blister bandages from the first aid kit and hope for the best.

While we were indoors at Black Sail, the sky has clouded over and by the time we emerge, the temperature has dropped enough for us to don our jackets.  The Californians take the lead when we leave Black Sail and we can just see them in the distance as we strike the path uphill. 

Heading uphill towards the Loft Beck stairway

Dad crossing one of the many becks along the path

It is not until we reach the stone stairway that takes us over Loft Beck that we really appreciate just how tough this walk really is.  It is only with frequent pauses along the ascent to catch our breath that we manage the impossibly wearisome and steep climb.  No amount of training in Perth readied us for this... I keep thinking that maybe I should have been doing Jacob's Ladder or Mount Street several times a day.  I am not sure how Julia Bradbury managed to look so effortlessly elegant while she climbed these steps but I am wheezing like a diesel engine by the time I get to the top.  As we are climbing it begins to rain so by the time we reach the top and wait for slower members of our party to catch up, the rain is coming down quite steadily.  

Fortunately it is easy to spot the cairns marking out the path although I am incredibly glad that we bump into a fellow walker at the supposed ruins of the old drumhouse for the slate tramway.  It is a most indistinct feature which we would otherwise have walked right past and it is only thanks to this first of a number of opportune 'right-place-at-the-right-time' meetings with a helpful guide that we take the turning off the path here and follow the right route down the tramway ramp to the Honister mine.

It is a very very welcome cup of tea once we reach the slate mine and the cafe is abuzz with visitors as well as walkers tired from Loft Beck and keen to shelter from the rain.  After a short break we feel recharged and resume our descent into the valley.  We are more fortunate than our fellows given that Seatoller is nearer than Rosthwaite/Stonethwaite where others are staying.  It means we have to make up the distance tomorrow but after an exceptionally tough day, our thoughts don't extend beyond our most immediate needs: a shower, a nice meal and a comfortable bed!

Seatoller House delivers these comforts in spades along with an excellent drying room which we make use of immediately.  It is a slightly strange arrangement where we have our own private bathroom but it's some way down the hall from our bedroom.  Not that it matters much I suppose.  To our delight we discover that dinner is included in our stay and at the designated time we repair to the common room to await the dinner gong.  We take our seats at one of two large oak tables in the dining room.  We are the only walkers staying here the night but the house is otherwise full of visitors.  At our table we meet a group of old school friends who meet here religiously every year before scattering to the four winds again.  It makes for very entertaining dinnertime conversation to accompany our indulgent 3-course meals.  While the rest of the diners return to the common room after dinner for coffee, fatigue gets the better of us so we three make our excuses and return to our rooms to rest aching limbs and (in Dad's unfortunate case), dress blisters...