Eating Singapore

The holiday is over, daily routine has reasserted itself and all we have left are photos and splendid memories...

... And some wonderful almond truffle biscuits from the Cookie Museum given to us by Lil.  One final chance to enjoy some authentic Singaporean baked loveliness, reminisce about the holiday that was and dream about the next trip, whenever that might be.

A memento of Singapore

Revenge of the cocoa bean

Okay so the day before my accident last December my greatest regret was not having that last piece of cake at Ross' office Christmas party.  Somehow the self-talk got the better of me and I passed up the pleasure of sinking my (then whole) teeth into a piece of chocolate loveliness.  Little did I know that less than 24 hours later I'd be miserable and spending the next 8 weeks on a puree diet.

So when the opportunity presented itself at high tea yesterday to reach for a final piece of cake, the self-naysayer got a stern rebuke and I reached out to grab the richest gooiest slab of chocolate cake possible. Never mind that this was on top of an already choc-heavy day and an indulgent high tea buffet.

Sorry self-talk, I will always listen to you from now on.  Having to take antacids at 1am in the morning and sit up in bed feeling awful is decidedly no fun.  

At least that puts that particular little regret to rest once and for all!

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Fortunately by morning I was feeling much better although I had to exercise considerable restraint at our final breakfast buffet.  We managed to secure a late check-out of the hotel so we navigated the City Link mall to Suntec City and did some last minute shopping before returning to our room to pack.  Having checked out and left our bags with Reception, we made one final foray across the road to my now beloved Raffles City foodhall for lunch.  We decided on a Japanese meal where we had the novel experience of placing our food order via iPad.  Ingenious really.

Mid-afternoon arrived and we bid adieu to the Raffles as our driver returned us to Changi Airport.  There was a bit of deja vu as I showed Ross the Butterfly Garden.  The last time I was here I was on my way home from Hong Kong.

Changi Airport Butterfly Garden - still a beautiful oasis

The flight home was much more enjoyable as it wasn't as packed, the air conditioning wasn't set to arctic, it was a newer plane and the entertainment system offered more choices.  And of course the crew were delightful - Singapore Girl, you really are a great way to fly.  

Garden Rhapsody

This is a very small taste of Garden Rhapsody.  It was definitely worth returning to Gardens by the Bay in the evening for what turned out to be quite a unique show.

From tea to Supertree

Emerging from the Aquarium, we only just made it back to Vivo City before the heavens opened.  Not wishing to ruin our appetites for high tea this afternoon, we only granted ourselves a light snack at lunchtime before heading back to the hotel to smarten up.

At 4pm we walked into the spectacular lobby of the Shangri-La Hotel and made our way upstairs to the Rose Veranda.  The tea menu was overwhelming with 164 different varieties to choose from but we eventually decided, and then it was time to tackle the buffet.  Although not as extensive as the teas on offer, there was still a wide selection of food from sushi to finger sandwiches, dim sum to salads, hot meals, and of course desserts.  I sampled some nonya sweets and revisited my childhood with a delicious scoop of yam ice cream.  

High tea at the Shangri-La

Bundling our bulging stomachs out of our chairs after tea, we caught a taxi to the Marina Bay Sands Hotel thinking we might kill some time by drifting around its neighbourhood shops.  The gleaming mall featured wall to wall luxury brands and big name labels of every description known to man.  It held very little interest for us though so we ascended a dizzying array of escalators to the very top of the mall and strolled across the rooftop walkway to Gardens by the Bay.  Fortunately the rain had stopped and the sky cleared to deliver a very pleasant evening.

The architecturally unique Marina Bay Sands Hotel

Back in the Supertree Grove below the OCBC Skyway

Having missed out on the Skyway a few days ago, we joined the queue to access the bridge suspended 22m above the ground.  Dusk was falling and the supertrees and city lights combined to create a surreal fantasy world.

The Supertrees turn on the lights

Cityscape viewed from the Skywalk

Atop the Skywalk

The time crept closer to 7:45pm but we were kept moving along the Skywalk and so had to return to ground level before the start of the Garden Rhapsody light show.  

Crowds gather in the Supertree Grove for the light show

And a spectacular show it was too with lights and music illuminating the Supertrees in all sorts of crazy colours.  Benign substrate for epiphytes during the day but at night, the Supertrees come alive.

Shades of Supertree

Returning to the hotel after what was a very long day, we bumped into the butler as we approached our room.  Having not seen him since our arrival, Ross set him the task of sourcing a mango for our fruit basket.  

And I guess that's the Raffles difference.  Not only was the mango quickly delivered to our room but it was all nicely diced and served up ready to eat!

The Raffles difference

Fishy zen

How wonderful to just sit in front of one of the many aquariums and get lost in the underwater world of fish and coral.  I suspect it was quieter on their side of the glass than on ours due to the continuous hum of humanity but that is where video editing can be so wonderful.

So here it is.  Sit back, relax and enjoy one glorious minute of fishy zen (with thanks to Beethoven for providing the soundtrack).

Not to be outdone, Saint-Saens composed the ever so appropriate Aquarium which is the perfect accompaniment to contemplating the Ocean Gallery.

Underwater elegance

Heeding some sage advice, we headed for Sentosa Island early to try and beat the crowds.  The morning air was again heavy with humidity but the sunshine held out as we walked across the boardwalk linking Vivo City to Sentosa.  Not that we needed to worry because with typical Singaporean consideration, the entire walkway was covered anyway and there were travellators to ease the 500m journey.  It was good advice to pre-purchase our tickets online to the SEA Aquarium as the queue looked a bit scary.

The first part of the visit took in the maritime museum which included a specially constructed dhow delicately balanced on pillars so that it floated in space as if berthed at a pier.

Inside the maritime museum

Perhaps the name, 'Typhoon Theatre' should have given it away but we still weren't quite prepared to be sprayed with water and blasted with cold air in the short immersive cinematic prologue prior to entering the aquarium.  The film set the scene for our first glimpse of the magical underwater world: that of a shipwreck.

Shipwreck

Shuffling along with fellow tourists and throngs of school kids, we were treated to so many different aquariums covering different species and underwater habitats.  No wonder really that the SEA Aquarium holds the title for being the world's largest - it purportedly houses 80,000 animals from over 800 species in 42.8 million litres of water.

Walking through the underwater tunnel 

Coral reef pillar

And if all that wasn't impressive enough, we were treated to one more wonder - that of the Ocean Gallery. Boasting the largest acrylic panel in the world, it measures 36m long by 8.3m tall.  It was a shame there was no information about the thickness of the panel as it must have been formidable to hold back that weight of water.  Needless to say it was utterly captivating to watch the elegant rays flap past, sharks emerge from the gloom, and so many different fish dance along in their schools. 

The blue wall

Colonial charm

It is day three and we are now old hands in the Tiffin Room.  Ross has his daily Raffles omelette and I continue to explore the breakfast buffet.  I discovered chocolate dipped strawberries this morning, who knew.  

After breakfast we took a detour up the grand wooden staircase in the main hotel, passing the meeting rooms and suites on our way to the top floor landing.

Raffles Hotel - top floor seating area 

Raffles Hotel - top floor

The diffuse light coming in through the windows and warm glow of the chandeliers show off the dark furnishings so well.  The building oozes colonial charm.  

View from the top - looking down to the Raffles Hotel lobby

We also found the swimming pool tucked away at the top of the building next to the Raffles Spa.

Raffles Hotel swimming pool

Adventure over we descended back to the lobby and set out on our next quest... to Sentosa.

Impressive floral display in the lobby with new creations daily

A garden stroll

"In the garden I tend to drop my thoughts here and there. To the flowers I whisper the secrets I keep and the hopes I breathe. I know they are there to eavesdrop for the angels."

Dodinsky - In the Garden of Thoughts

Singapore does the whole tourist experience so well so it was no great surprise that Gardens by the Bay would be utterly spectacular.  The morning air was heavy and the skies were threatening rain as we walked the short distance from the MRT station to the Gardens.  All around was evidence of preparations for the upcoming Singapore Garden Festival - shame it starts the day after we leave.

Crossing the bridge to Gardens by the Bay

The rain started soon after so we made the conservatories our first stop.  It was quite surreal being dry (and cold!) inside the Cloud Forest while water streamed down the outside of the glass.

Now that's what you call a green wall

The conservatory seemed impossibly huge - what an incredible feat of engineering to house a waterfall and a green wall several storeys high.  And everywhere, a mind boggling array of plants and flowers from different mountain habitats.

Cloud Forest - looking down from the top

Forest atop the waterfall

The conservatory next door was equally cold but this one housed plants from semi-arid and Mediterranean environments.

Inside the Flower Dome

The bizarre world of pebble plants (can you see them?)

Among the weird and wonderful plants, there were some familiar floral friends from Western Australia.  However no need to include photos of grass trees or Kangaroo Paw here!

And here's a familiar Western Australia flower - Ross next to an orchid display

Singapore is perhaps best known for its orchids and there was a spectacular variety on show.

Magnificent orchids

Outside the rain was still coming down steadily and because of the slip hazard, the Skyway suspended between the Supertrees was closed.  We decided to call it quits but resolved to return some other time for the evening light show and another crack at the Skyway.

Supertrees under a leaden sky

Ross grabbed some lunch on the way back to the hotel but I went on another mission to the Raffles City foodhall... success!  I found some char siew bau and took my precious cargo back to the hotel where I could leisurely savour my steamed pillows of heavenly softness wrapped around tender BBQ pork:)

What better way to spend a rainy afternoon than to settle in a plush armchair with a good book.  

A welcome rest

Or indeed the parlour...

Ross relaxing in the parlour

The evening saw us walk the network of interconnected malls to Marina Square for a catch up with some good Uni friends of mine.  Lil and Alvin treated us to some fine Asian cuisine at Putien and we certainly enjoyed the stir-fried yam, braised tofu and lor mee.  We were even treated to some small samples of mooncake and not just the run of the mill lotus paste variety available at home.  It seems every hotel and bakery in Singapore is offering their own take on the traditional Mid Autumn Festival delicacy with loads of different fillings to choose from.  If it wasn't near impossible to bring food home I'd probably be stockpiling mooncakes right now...

Shops and other sorts of magic

This morning we repaired to the Tiffin Room for breakfast (as you do) where Ross thoroughly enjoyed the attention lavished upon him by the staff: 

'How are you today Mr Man? We are saying your name correctly aren't we?  Have you had enough coffee Mr Man?  How did you like your breakfast Mr Man? Would you like anything else?'  

I must admit I felt a little invisible by comparison.  Oh well.  I got to indulge in some bircher muesli and the world's nicest papaya so I was happy.  Walking back to our room, we  passed the enigmatic 'Courtyard Man' (as he affectionately became known) - a fellow guest who seemed to spend a disproportionate amount of time sitting outside his room.  And why not really when it meant enjoying the warm humid air, listening to the birds and the sound of raindrops pitter pattering on the surrounding leaves.

Outside the Tiffin Room - posing in the Raffles lobby

The walkway to our room overlooking the lush green courtyard - funnily enough one of the rare occasions where Courtyard Man was not present

As we walked to the nearest MRT station, we glanced back at the grand old facade.

The Raffles Hotel

Orchard Road was our goal today and even at our leisurely pace we arrived there just as shops were opening.  Ross did his best to act enthused but even at the best of times, shops are a chore for him.  With the vestiges of a cold, browsing just became a herculean task.   So we only managed to visit the Ion and Paragon shopping centres and the basement of Ngee Ann City before calling it a day. 

Proof that we did make it to Orchard Road even if it was only a brief visit!

I timed our visit to the Takashimaya basement just as Ross was getting hungry.  Perfect!  There's nothing quite like the soft doughy treasure trove of an asian bakery and in Singapore, there seems to be one around every corner:

Shelf upon shelf of baked loveliness

For me though, there was a special reason for coming here and I'd spent ages daydreaming about it. Thank you Mr Obanyaki for making the WORLD'S BEST taiyaki.  Piping hot and filled to bursting with the tastiest red bean filling.

My kind of heaven - the world's best taiyaki

We sat in the rather unglamorous surroundings of the basement near a fountain to have our food.  For all I cared it could have been a Michelin starred restaurant - I had my long sought after red bean pancake and all was right with the world!

We headed back to the colonial oasis of the Raffles with no other plans for the day beyond resting. However a knock on our door in the mid-afternoon saw us score a couple of free tickets to a magic show scheduled this evening at the hotel.  Before the show I managed to convince Ross to walk the short distance to the Raffles City shopping centre across the road for dinner at another institution: the Din Tai Fung dumpling house where we enjoyed some of their famous xiao long bau.  While delectable, a mix up meant we didn't receive our full order.  Rather than going hungry I make a panicked dash to the ever reliable Watsons for some emergency chocolate.  Always good in times of need.

The show at the Raffles' Jubilee Theatre introduced us to the kooky world of Joe Labero.  With crazy eyes and a loud, bombastic style, he ran through a series of illusions ranging from card tricks to levitation to daring escapes.  The theatre was only half full when we arrived so we were encouraged to move closer to the stage.  I refused to sit anywhere closer than the third row despite Ross egging me on.  For his sins, the magician duly picked on him during the act (HA!) and he became the 'key' person (key-holder really) for the duration of the show.  Nothing too embarrassing but just enough to keep him on his toes.  

Singapore dreaming

A special wedding anniversary called for a special celebration and so in January we took advantage of a package deal.  Back then an August travel date seemed impossibly far away.  As the months shuffled by, the holiday happened to acquire added significance as one last hurrah before mental dental work and a new life in academia.

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Ross pulled his favourite party trick and came down with a cold right before travelling so it was a rather subdued start to the holiday.  And if there’s anything worse than sitting next to a sniffing, sneezing person on a five hour flight, it’s being sandwiched between TWO sniffing, sneezing people on a five hour flight (thank you mystery man to my left for also having a cold today).  Oh what fun.

We arrived in Singapore at 7:30pm and were met by our jovial driver – another of the perks of our holiday package – and whisked away to the Raffles Hotel for a once in a lifetime stay.  Definitely a novelty to walk a red carpet into the gleaming lobby, to be seated in a plush armchair next to a chiming grandfather clock while the duty manager checked us in.  And to be escorted down the marble and teakwood hallways to our suite by ‘our’ butler and shown our rooms. 

Herewith recorded for posterity (and/or as evidence of just how silly a tourist I can be in a fabulous hotel) – the colonial grandeur of our bedroom, parlour, dressing room and bathroom…

Views of the bedroom

His and hers sinks in the dressing room

The ornately tiled bath and shower

Between the front door and the bedroom - an exquisite parlour with small dining table and sofa (not shown)

Our butler's final kindness before retiring for the evening was to bring us our complimentary welcome drinks.  Although in the birthplace and spiritual home of the legendary Singapore Sling, we passed on that particular delicacy and stuck with something simpler and with less gin!